Convert old model damixa 54/50 or 70 with the 23486.00
You own a Damixa single-lever kitchen faucet purchased before 2003. You're experiencing a dripping faucet and want to repair it. How does this work, and what do you need? This manual will show you step-by-step what to do and which parts you need.
Step 1
Remove the blue/red colored cap from the lever, Please note, it is okay if this gets damaged, you will get a new one with most repair kits.

Step 2
Loosen the Allen bolt hidden under the blue-red cap. You can use a 3mm Allen wrench for this, which is also included in most repair kits.

Step 3
Once you have lifted the handle off you will see the internals.

Step 4
You can now remove the cover and the serrated ring. You can simply "pry" the cover off and then remove the cover mounting ring by bending it outward at the notch. As you can see, the ring should be split under the cover!

Step 5
Now you'll find the large brass nut, which you can loosen with a large pair of water pump pliers; a suitable adjustable wrench will also work. This nut can be quite tight. If it won't come loose, it's helpful to "shake" the nut by tapping the handle of the water pump pliers/adjustable wrench with a hammer. (Make sure to secure the faucet from under the sink; you can do this with a size 13 wrench.)

Step 6
Now that the nut is off, you'll see the internals (ball mixer). You can remove it by pulling it upwards and out of the tap.

Step 7
The internals consist of the following parts: a locking ring, a white cap, a flat ring, a conical rubber, and a ball mixer. In this example, however, we will replace them with the new ball model and will use part 23486.00.

Step 8
If you now look inside the faucet, you'll see a metal ring with two tabs. In this example, we'll remove this to make room for the new type of ball. You'll also see the valve seals, which we'll remove as well.

Step 9
The parts to be removed are now out, as you can see these are 1 metal ring with cams and 2 springs with rubbers.

Step 10
Now we'll start installing the new parts. As you can see, the valve seals are now one piece; they were a separate spring and seal, as in the previous step. The kit also includes a small bag of grease and two rods; you'll need these three parts for installation.

Step 10-A
Use the sandpaper stick to sand down the shafts where the old rubbers and springs emerge. We do this to remove all traces of limescale.

Step 10-B
Use the 2nd rod to place the new valve rubbers, you must grease the ring on the bottom with the supplied tap grease

Step 10-C
Use the 2nd rod to place the new valve rubbers, you must grease the ring on the bottom with the supplied tap grease

Step 11-A
Use the 2nd rod to place the new valve rubbers, you must grease the ring on the bottom with the supplied tap grease

Step 11-B
Now that the ball 13080.00 has been greased, it can be installed. The tab on the metal ring must be placed in the notch to ensure the ball is properly seated.

Step 11-C
Now tighten the nut on the faucet so that the ball stays in place. The leak repair is now complete.
We can now reassemble the tap.

Step 12-A Optional
The next steps are optional. We install a temperature limiter/water saver.
For the temperature limitation we have 3 parts as shown here (these can be ordered with number 23517.00). They are included in set 23486.00.

Step 12-A Optional
Insert the guide by turning it a quarter turn (there is a recess in the ball for this purpose)

Step 12-B Optional

Step 12-C Optional
Now place the ring around it as shown next to it.

Step 12-C-1 Optional
Besides the white ones, there are also black lever guides, which restrict the flow of the valve. Place these around the ball's pawl as shown here. The safety catch is now in place; we can replace the cover and lever.

Step 13
Now we can put the hood mounting ring back on.

Step 14
You can simply click the hood on, it is held by the ring

Step 15
Finally we place the new blue/red cap and the tap is as good as new again!
